First ascent of Kyunga Ri 2 - 6506m by Sophie Lavaud

Published on 22/01/2021

On December 16, 2020, here we are back in Kathmandu after this superb adventure in the Langtang valley where we climbed this virgin summit the Kyungya Ri 2 which culminates at 6506m.

After a mandatory visit to the Ministry of Tourism to obtain the ascent permit and the customary signatures, we set off by jeep north towards Langtang.

It took us 7 days of walking including 2 in a terrible and dangerous moraine then a glacier day to reach the foot of our mountain at 5600m. Small team, 4 climbers, Sangay, Mingma, Tenjing and me accompanied by 4 porters.

It's a very different atmosphere from the 8000m expeditions. We are alone with an unknown goal. Once at the foot of the face, the search for the best route is necessary and despite a wind at more than 60 km / h at the summit announced by Yan, we still decided to go for it.

We left at 2 am, we reached the summit at 10:40 am on December 11, the day of “mountaineering day”… a great reward. 

A tough and committed face, a magnificent experience during which you learn a lot and I loved the spirit of adventure and discovery of a summit that has never been climbed.

Our little 4-legged mascot "kukur" (dog in Nepali) who followed us from the village of Langtang did not make the summit but reached the foot of the mountain on the glacier at 5600m !! too strong !!


Holding Swiss, French and Canadian citizenship, lives in Geneva. After a career in the hotel, luxury and cosmetics industries she now devotes most of her time to Himalayan mountaineering while also giving lectures and being a consultant in external affairs for the coaching institute futura21.She has climbed so far 11 summits over 8000 meters and she is  nicknamed the “88000 Lady”.In realizing her dreams, she tries to help women especially in Nepal and Pakistan to achieve theirs.

Favourite Grivel products: Air Tech Evo Ice axe, Air Tech crampons, Daisy chain and Duetto helmet