CLASH OF CRAMPONS
Published on 24/04/2020
Shall we use Air Tech, G12 or G22+? In which situation?
To try to answer this difficult question, we have asked to four of our athletes their opinion. Read carefully and make your choice!
Damien Tomasi, Chamonix - France, 33 years old, alpinist and mountain guide, member of the Chamonix Alpine Guides Association and instructor at ENSA (Ecole Nationale Ski et Alpinisme).
François Cazzanelli, Cervinia - Italy, 30 years old, alpinist and mountain guide, member of the Cervino Mountain Guides Association.
Herve Barmasse, Valtournenche, Italy, 42 years old, alpinist, mountain guide, mountain guide instructor, member of the Cervino Mountain Guides Association.
Steve House, Colorado, USA, 49 years old, alpinist and mountain guide, Piolet d’Or 2005 winner.
I use the Air Tech crampon when I need a compact, all-purpose crampon.
I like its compact size, the classic 12-point design and its unrivalled versatility.
I often use these for guiding objectives with mixed rock/ice/snow terrain, such as the Hornli-Ridge on the Matterhorn. I did a lot of classic routes in the Alps in these crampons.
I use Air Tech mainly on mixed terrain characterized by long stretches of rock.
The shorter points allow you to move fast, even run.
The Air Tech crampons are ideal for "classic" mountaineering routes from AD to D + / TD depending on the terrain.
It is a powerful crampon for ice, snow and easy rock. The anitbott are extremely efficient and provide enormous safety when the snow is warmed by the sun. For me it is the ideal crampon for my guiding seasons in the Mont Blanc range. The Innominata at Mont Blanc is perhaps their ideal route.
The Air Tech is the ideal crampon for classic mixed terrain. We appreciate its qualities on itineraries where you are forced to use crampons on the rock most of the time. Such as on the Lion's Matterhorn ridge.
The short points make it extremely easy to handle which makes it stable and extremely effective on rock.
My best performance with this crampon was the linking of the 4 Matterhorn ridges in 16 hours and 4 minutes.
I prefer the G12 on mixed terrain characterized by long stretches of fresh snow, where you have to make the track and in the Himalayas where you often move without rope and there is no margin for any error. As on the south face of Shishapangma 8027 m.
The front points that allow you to have exceptional support and hold.
I do not have a ranking of climbs with the G12, but the Couloir opened with my father on the south face of the Matterhorn is a precious memory.
The best crampon for snow routes, it is ideal for tackling classic itineraries such as the crossing of the Lyskamm or the Trois Monts on Mont Blanc. But it also fits perfectly on more demanding routes such as on the Brenva Spur or the north of the Breithorn.
The long front points penetrate well into the ice and hard snow giving it perfect stability.
My best climbs on the G12: Lhotse without oxygen, and Everest with a client.
I use the G12 for classic mountaineering through technical alpinism.
The shape of the crampon perfectly traces the edge of the boot. So i always know where the points are, they’re right under the edge of my boot, exactly where I want them to be.
I used these crampons on the Rupal Face Ascent (as did Vince) on Nanga Parbat in 2005, my most famous climb for sure.
The G22 + adapts perfectly to the modern mixed climbing. It can be used perfectly wherever we are forced to use two ice axes, it adapts to all difficulties from the simplest to the most extreme.
I love its robustness and the perfect grip of the points.
My best outings with the G22 +? The Cassin Ridge on Denali and the north face of the Matterhorn with a client.
The G22 + is perfect for ice climbing and technical mountaineering.
I like the performance of the front points and the incredible quality of "Grivel" steel.
My best day with them: the west face of Mount Huntington in Alaska.
As an alpinist who also enjoys mixed and ice climbs, this is my favorite crampon of all time, and the one I use the most.
I love the quality of the steel, light weight, precise fit and perfect form.
I use these on so many routes it is hard to single out only one. If Moses only allows me to bring one crampon into heaven, this is the one I will bring.
The G22 + is excellent for all high-level ice, snow and mixed terrain in the mountains.
I love their low weight and versatility.
My best ascent with them? Certainly the first waterfall of the year 2019, where I "baptized" them and that as usual I climb a few meters from home. A sort of mental test that I often face unroped. A very intimate moment in which you seek affinity with the new climbing tools.