Published on 28/07/2020
This magnificent ridge with the legendary name, has a profile engraved in the sky. The atmosphere of this route makes it a dream route.
The climb is long and continuous, it has a few slopes and welcoming shoulders for bivouacking. But also athletic and aerial parts.
Its 1200m vertical drop makes it one of the biggest climbs in the Mont Blanc massif.
Welzenback, Brendel and Ottoz points have 5c passages.
The descent of the normal route is complex.
Karl Brendel and Hermann Schaller marked the history of mountaineering on August 26th and 27th, 1930, by climbing this impressive ridge.
Here is a strategy:
Night departure from Camping Aiguille Noire (Matteo Pellin offers a very good advice).
Access to the Borelli bivouac and approach at night in 3 hours.
Start climbing at dawn and climb up to the summits of Pointe Brendel or Biche, where there are very good bivouacs (with snow in the correct years).
Leave early the next day to enjoy the summit and especially to have time for the descent which is long and complex. (Summit-parking between 5 and 1 p.m.)
Enjoy as much as you can and have a beautiful adventure.
a. Ghost Hammer : Lightweight and efficient for a snow approach, and useful to re-hammer the pitons.
b. Air tech light : Light and efficient for an approach in snow. The weight of the gear is so important in a big route.
c. Clepsydra S : At the head of the belay for my second.
d. Sigma K8G : To block my rings on the harness.
f. Magic Ring :For small, secure rappels without adding a carabiner.
h. Plume K3W : On each of my cams.
i. Master pro : Belaying and abseiling
j. Alpine ring: very useful in climbing and at the belay
k. Stealth: The perfect helmet; light, robust, beautiful.
l. Trend harness: Pretty, light and comfortable.
m. Alpine pro backpack : volume and comfort to carry all the bivouac gear.
n. Winter Hat :It's cold in the evening and in the morning!
40 years old, leaving Vallorcine in Chamonix valley. Mountain guide and member of Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix. He has open different multi pitch granite routes in Mt Blanc area. He is happy to drive his clients in long adventures and he likes climbing nice longs routes with his friends.
Grivel favorite products: Ice axe Ghost, Air Tech Crampons, Trend Harness